View Full Version : Solving Photography Problems
Richard in NC
02-24-2009, 09:16 PM
The challenge:
Taking pictures at the Carolina Raptor Center: brown birds, brown backgrounds, heavy shadows, and fencing (cages).
Techniques:
Aperature priority - set the camera to as large aperature (smallest number) as possible. This narrows the depth of field (focus depth). It blurs out the fencing and the backgrounds, making a better picture. The closer the fence is to you and the further the object (bird), the better the end result. Note a large aperature also allows a faster shutter speed.
Manual focus - needed because the camera wants to focus on the fencing.
I also looked for angles to have the fencing in the shade but the birds in the sun, as much as possible. Here is the end result.
NoM6D
02-24-2009, 09:20 PM
:thumb: Very nice! I just learned something...
AusBmw
02-24-2009, 11:07 PM
Sir Snaps-A-Lot could make a lot of money out side of his day job, giving advice to car lots on how to take photos! I've seen some shockers!
What equipment do you use exactly Richard, I ask because I was thinking it would be good for all to know.
Here's one I often ask happy snap gurus such as your self, what's the best method and equipment needed to capture lighting?
InsidiousSpeed
02-24-2009, 11:18 PM
Nice photos of those birds or prey.
boxboss
02-25-2009, 05:00 AM
Typically good, Richard. I especially liked the last 3. Your description of a "challenge" is an understatement!
Beautiful shots Richard!!!!! Gotta try some of those techniques to further refine my photoskills!
a few of my naturale shots!
Richard in NC
02-25-2009, 03:20 PM
Sir Snaps-A-Lot could make a lot of money out side of his day job, giving advice to car lots on how to take photos! I've seen some shockers!
What equipment do you use exactly Richard, I ask because I was thinking it would be good for all to know.
Here's one I often ask happy snap gurus such as your self, what's the best method and equipment needed to capture lighting?
My equipment is a 3 year old Nikon D200 with a 10mp DX sensor. My general purpose lens is an 18-200VR (vibration reduction). I also have a 12-24, a 70-200 f2.8 VR, a 60 macro that I never use, and a 1.7 Teleconverter. Therefore my total range is 12-340, equivalent to 18-510mm in 35mm terms. I am looking for a better short zoom for indoors, weddings, etc but can't justify the $1500 for a top Nikon lens.
I do have an SB600 flash and a cool flash diffuser for nice lighting indoors.
Note for the most narrow depth of field in the examples above, you should have an f2.8 lens or better. For most of the shots in the cages, I should have had the 70-200 for the best effect and quality but instead had the 18-200.
Richard in NC
02-25-2009, 03:38 PM
Here's one I often ask happy snap gurus such as your self, what's the best method and equipment needed to capture lighting?
I assume you mean lightning? :electric:
I would use something like a 17-55 f2.8 or maybe a plain old 50mm f1.8 with the camera on a tripod and a remote trigger. Right at 50mm with a DX format camera (or 70mm with a full frame or 35mm) seems to give a good area of the sky (I just checked). Manual focus to near infinity. Set the camera to continuous shooting, aim towards an area with lots of lightning and be ready to snap lots of shots. I would snap off 3-4 shots each lightning strike, possibly anticipating as much as you can. The perfect shot takes lots of luck.
PS: I can only guess at exposure levels. A lightning strike should fill the sky and provide plenty of light and the shutter speed is faster than you expect. However miss the strike and you'll get a long slow shutter. Once you get a few decent shots, you can go into shutter priority and pic your speeds. You want a dark exposure with the lightning providing a spotlight if its close enough or you can see the horizon.
The fireworks shots below were taken at close range at 70mm with a 1/15 shutter. Hand held with my big 70-200 f2.8, BTW.
NoM6D
02-25-2009, 04:13 PM
I do have an SB600 flash and a cool flash diffuser for nice lighting indoors.
I remember that one from Vegas, right?
boxboss
02-25-2009, 04:28 PM
The fireworks shots below were taken at close range at 70mm with a 1/15 shutter. Hand held with my big 70-200 f2.8, BTW.
A comment on my experience if I might... I've had very good luck with fireworks photos in the past (at least with film - haven't tried with digital) using a tripod and bung cord. Define the field (with a zoom at least) without taking photos for the first few aerial shots. Also, mentally time how long the lapse is between the mortar percussion and the burst. Once you have those two down, trigger the shutter a second or so before the anticipated burst. The film camera I was using at the time was an aperture priority model (OM10) set on automatic with greatest depth of field - for capturing bursts that moved to/from the lens. Take lots of shots and some will be really nice.
Sorry, I have no idea where these pics might be (>20 years ago) and can't scan/post them.
Richard in NC
02-25-2009, 04:44 PM
A comment on my experience if I might... I've had very good luck with fireworks photos in the past (at least with film - haven't tried with digital) using a tripod and bung cord. Define the field (with a zoom at least) without taking photos for the first few aerial shots. Also, mentally time how long the lapse is between the mortar percussion and the burst. Once you have those two down, trigger the shutter a second or so before the anticipated burst. The film camera I was using at the time was an aperture priority model (OM10) set on automatic with greatest depth of field - for capturing bursts that moved to/from the lens. Take lots of shots and some will be really nice.
Sorry, I have no idea where these pics might be (>20 years ago) and can't scan/post them.
All good ideas. I've used a tripod & remote release before with fireworks shots. For the ones above, I was at a baseball stadium in the stands. Almost too close for 70mm. The good DSLRs (like the D200, D300, etc) are fast enough, that I can follow the rocket up and take the shot the instant it starts to explode. Its full out for the shot. Lightning on the otherhand is usually too quick for that.
Correct on the diffuser at Vegas.
The fireworks shots below were taken at close range at 70mm with a 1/15 shutter. Hand held with my big 70-200 f2.8, BTW.
fireworks are one of my fav thing in the world, awesome pix :electric:
Sorry, I have no idea where these pics might be (>20 years ago) and can't scan/post them.
unacceptable!!! :electric:
boxboss
02-25-2009, 04:57 PM
unacceptable!!! :electric:
:dunno: Maybe Ms Boss knows where they are. I'll see what I can do.
boxboss
02-25-2009, 06:22 PM
After spending an hour thumbing through albums and reminiscing about my son's young years, I was able to find ONE fireworks picture that fit the bill of my previous post. It's the first one below - keep in mind it's a scan of a 35mm print that's at least 25 years old (4th July when I lived in Ft. Worth, TX.) Since m630 likes fireworks so much, I included a couple Ms Boss took a couple of years ago in Chicago. These were very difficult (as you can tell) as they were taken hand held from a moving boat on Lake Michigan. The second is especially interesting to me...like a still from "The Jellyfish That Ate Chicago."
Second thoughts: The first image shows why a large depth of field is so important. The "streaks" moving toward the camera are slightly out of focus v the sharply focused ones that move perpendicular to the lens. An aerial burst tends to move in all directions...toward, away, and at right angles to the lens. The larger the depth of field, the more of these elements you will have in focus.
In the second picture (the "jellyfish" one,) I can visualize the window "trails" of the buildings (due to the boat movement) giving the descending "jellyfish" the finger. No, no hallucinogens...maybe excess dust inhalation, though.