18 or 19.....

[DarrenCT]

new wheels coming, what would be better, 18 or 19" what are benefits and drawbacks? :bmw:

[Enigma]

new wheels coming, what would be better, 18 or 19" what are benefits and drawbacks? :bmw:
I think that 18" are a bit too small for 6er. I would go with 19", if 20" is not an option. Just my .02c.
VR>

[chuck92103]

19" and 20" look better.

However, if you lower the car, there is not much difference between 18" and 19/20. The 18" would offer the smoothest ride.

The main advantage to 18" is the selection of tires is quadrupled and the cost starts at about $130 vice $250-$500 per tire.

Also, if you avoid a staggard setup, rotation is possible along with the ease of finding a tire readily available.

I am seriously considering downgrading to 18" when my tires go. I can get nice tires for about $600 installed vice $1800.

I remember when I had my 97 M3. It had 17" wheels. At the time tires were $200-$300. They are about half the price now. Eventually 19" will be half the price once more cars have the wheel size. It just depends if you want to wait a few years.

[DarrenCT]

I am getting the M6 replicas..... I just heard that from an acceleration standpoint, 18's have less rotational mass and are therefore a little "quicker" to turn, providing they weigh the same or less :dunno:

[Enigma]

I am getting the M6 replicas..... I just heard that from an acceleration standpoint, 18's have less rotational mass and are therefore a little "quicker" to turn, providing they weigh the same or less :dunno:
Darren, I've got 19" RFT and 20" non-RFT. Both sets perform fairly good (I too, drive 6 SP MT). Although, I will agree with Chuck that 19" and 20" would give you a more hardesh ride then 18". It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. I chose 20" for looks and, since they're non-RFT, I get much softer ride, then my 19" RFT set. Just my .02c :dunno:
VR>

18" for ride and 19" for looks, but both are all within the OEM range and are well engineered by BMW. From that point of view, it therefore is just what you prefer. This becomes a more serious issue when you start putting on 20" or higher.

Go for 19". Looks is more important than ride. :youbet:

[chuck92103]

One thing to note. If you decide to go with different wheels regardless of size, do your home work.

Weight and engineering vary greatly. If you notice, all manufactuers' OEM wheels have no lip. They push the spokes to the outer limits of the rim. The outer rim is where all the pressure is when you hit a pot hole or bump. When spokes are moved inwards for appearance reasons, the deep dish rims are become weak at the outer edges. This is where the the high quality forged rims are separated from the less expensive cast rims.

When selecting deep dish rims in the 17-19" range this is not so much of an issue as the dish is not that deep. But as you move up to 20-22 it becomes more of an issue. And if you buy rims that are closeout and no longer available, you may have to buy 4 new wheels in the event one gets damaged.

[DarrenCT]

no deep dish.....M6 replica

[Gman]

19"

[Gran Turismo]

In addition to what's already been stated above, 18" are also less prone to curb rashes as they're better protected by the tire.
Especially during winter, when such nasty obstacles endangering your expensive rims might be hidden or covered by 2-3 inches of snow. :-|

That's why I went with 18" for my winter wheel set.

[Gman]

I have 18" winter tyres and 19" summer tyres!

Awesome combination. :thumb:

[BHR4CE1]

I have 18" winter tyres and 19" summer tyres!

Awesome combination. :thumb:


Winter tires??? What's That?

For that matter...What's WINTER?

:greenlaff:

[Gman]

you spoiled devil... Come back home. 8-)

[cobradav]

I am getting the M6 replicas..... I just heard that from an acceleration standpoint, 18's have less rotational mass and are therefore a little "quicker" to turn, providing they weigh the same or less :dunno:

Well let's not get too carried away on the acceleration standpoint. Unless you are really into all out drag racing this is not much of a factor in your daily drive.

As already stated by Chuck you have plenty to concern yourself with from a daily driver view.

Yes, less unsprung weight is good (wheel and tire)
Yes, for acceleration, less rotating mass is better

BUT

as Chuck points out, strong is good (may come with more or less weight depending on manufacturing technique).

and then the asthetic may count more or less for you.

You appear to have picked the wheel already as a M6 "replica" If weight were the almighty driver then I would say the replica is not as good as OEM M6 as they were designed for least weight at high strength.

Then the tire choice - tires will differ significanly in weight as well. As a rule a RFT will weigh mose for same size as a non-RFT tire.

THe best single sourec for some quick comparisons (including a fair look at how different sizes may look) is Tire Rack. While you may not buy from them their wheel configurator gives a quick glance at how they look and they include weights as well. Same goes for weight of tire - you can compare differnent sizes and brands.

But if you allow yourself to be driven by only one factor (mass or size) you may miss out on other equal or even more important factors (safety, durability, grip, etc).

[DarrenCT]

ok, thanks :)